Ingredients

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for grill and sauce 

1 small onion, minced 

2 cloves garlic, minced 

1 teaspoon ground cumin 

1 teaspoon ground coriander 

1/3 cup whole milk 

4 slices white bread, crusts removed, and torn into 1/4-inch pieces (3/4 cup) 

1 1/2 pounds ground lamb 

1/2 cup feta cheese, crumbled 

1/2 cup fresh cilantro leaves, chopped, plus 1/2 cup finely chopped for sauce 

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper 

1 large egg, lightly beaten 

1 cup plain whole-milk Greek yogurt 

1/2 cup fresh cilantro or mint leaves, finely chopped 

Zest of 1 lemon, plus juice of 1/2 lemon 

Kosher salt 

Extra-virgin olive oil 

Pinch of cayenne pepper 

Preparation

Make the kebabs: In a medium skillet, heat oil over medium-high. Add onion and cook until very soft and translucent, about 6 minutes. Add garlic, cumin, and coriander and cook until fragrant, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl; let cool.

In a small bowl, pour milk over bread and let soak 5 minutes. In a large bowl, combine lamb, feta, cilantro, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt, 1 teaspoon pepper, egg, cooked onion mixture, and bread mixture. Use your hands to mix gently until combined (do not overmix). Refrigerate until chilled.

Divide meat mixture into 4 equal portions, then form each portion around a 3/4-inch-wide flat metal skewer, leaving about 1 1/2 inches at each end. Transfer kebabs to a baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until chilled or up to overnight.

Preheat grill for direct-heat cooking (or a grill pan over medium-high). Brush grates with oil. Grill kebabs, turning as needed, until cooked through and charred in spots, and a thermometer inserted into the center reaches 140 degrees (medium-rare), 6 to 8 minutes.

Make the sauce: Combine yogurt, cilantro, and lemon zest and juice in a small bowl. Season with salt; drizzle with olive oil. Sprinkle with cayenne before serving.